Not progressively tightening bushing hardware.Flat washers do not provide this benefit. Split washers allow some bite into the fastener and the bushing, preventing the bolt from backing out. Swapping the split washer for a flat washer.Similar to over-torquing, using either of these will cause the bushing to seat deeper within the mating part, putting increased stress on both components. Using an anti-seize compound or lubricant on mounting surfaces or hardware.Otherwise, the potential to over-torque is very real and may cause a failure. Mentioned above, by using a torque wrench, you’re applying the exact torque required to mount a bushing to its mating part accurately. If either the QD or split-taper bushing is challenging to remove, place a wedge between the bushing flange and component hub. Alternately tighten to remove the bushing. Once separated, take and thread them into the removal holes in the bushing. The first step in removal is to loosen and remove all screws or bolts from your assembly. This is a preventative measure rather than a performance-related one. Fill all unoccupied holes with grease to exclude contaminants and reduce corrosion.Switch between tightening the screws and hammering the bushing until the torque on the screws is the same before and after hammering. On bushings 3535 and larger, drive the bushing into the hub using a rubber mallet and block.THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR TAPER-LOCK BUSHINGS ONLY: Please note: A GAP SHOULD REMAIN AT ALL TIMES BETWEEN COMPONENT HUB AND (QD/SPLIT-TAPER) BUSHING FLANGE This progressive tightening allows the bushing to seat correctly and squarely. Alternate tightening your bolts gradually until specific torque values are reached.
Tighten the set-screw over the key to keep it in place once final drive alignments are complete. Install the key onto the shaft and mount assembly as desired.Insert the bolts through the bushing’s non-threaded hole then thread into your counterpart by hand, leaving the assembly loose.*QD bushings can be mounted two ways, standard or reverse mount.* The threaded holes on the bushing will be utilized during removal. Insert the bushing into the component hub and align the bushing’s non-threaded holes to its counterpart’s threaded ones.Installation of your bushingįollow these steps for proper installation: Remove all dust, dirt, paint, oil, and grease. As mentioned above, bushings work through friction and force, so foreign matter on any of these surfaces will inhibit the ability to work correctly. It’s essential to clean all involved parts thoroughly: the shaft, the bushing bore, and OD, as well as the component bore (that of your sprocket or sheave). You can do this by consulting the table below: Use of anti-seize leads to bushings seating deeper within the mating part, leading to breakage of the mating part.īegin by confirming that your shafting is within tolerance. Time to prepare your bushing Please note: NEVER USE ANTI-SEIZE DURING INSTALLATION Let’s outline the steps you’ll need to take to install split-taper, QD, and taper-lock bushings properly, and then discuss a straightforward removal process you can execute quickly. At this point, increased downtime and – if the mating shaft is harmed – potentially bigger and costlier issues arise. Incorrect installation can cause excessive vibrations, increased run-out, or breakage of the mating part, inevitably damaging components and the shaft it engages. Whether through regular maintenance or the replacement of its companion item, proper installation of a bushing can affect all other components within the drive. Some specialty bushings even accommodate splined or keyless shafts. They also allow us to make modifications quickly and efficiently. The simple system to install and remove a bushing allows us to quickly change sprockets, sheaves, and pulleys – among other things – from one shaft size to another. Bushings are an indispensable component of power transmission, allowing for a flexible drive system.